São Tomé & Principe (STP)
An adventure started as we stepped on the red grounds of São Tome. Our 4WD Vitara Cabrio was waiting for us at the airport, but what looked like a short ride on Google maps turned out to be a blind rally of avoiding dozens of holes along the road. Although it was only 6pm, it was, of course, completely dark around the Equator. We drove for one hour and a half and arrived at Roça de São João de Angolares, where we woke up to the sounds of raindrops and tried many fruits that we did not know of at the best breakfast ever :)
Next day we took a boat to the Southern Hemisphere and did a trail around Ilhéu das Rolas. We started being more aware of an incredible dense vegetation and other wonders of our destination. In search of lunch we ended up in a fishing village at Praia Pesqueira and tasted what will become our usual meal at the island - yummy fresh fish with fried banana, taken from an improvised restaurant – basically some local lady´s kitchen.
In São Tomé we visited Monte Café and had a five stars lunch at Casa Almada Negreiros. We had the opportunity to learn about the Cacao Production at Roça Diogo Vaz and Roça Agua Izé and the privilege to swim at 24o degrees Atlantic Ocean waters in Lagoa Azul, at Mukumbli beach and at a beach on the road to Santa Catarina. However, the highlight of our journey was the six hours trail that we did at Obô National Park. From 500m above sea level to 1.250meters, we walked deep into the primary forest where you don´t go without a sharp catana and were fortunate to see – two meters away – peaceful and deadly “Mamba Negra” snake. In the way back we did Caminhos da água, through claustrophobic 400 meters long water tunnels. Two hours nonstop rain made our jungle adventure if not more interesting surely more memorable.
In the capital we visited the National Museum, located in São Sebastião Fort dating 1575, met fellow TEDxSãoTomé organizers and found our way through the crowded, busy and unbelievably noisy local market. For less than 2€ we got out loaded with mangas, papaias and bananas (there are seven types of bananas at the island!)
Next day we took a boat to the Southern Hemisphere and did a trail around Ilhéu das Rolas. We started being more aware of an incredible dense vegetation and other wonders of our destination. In search of lunch we ended up in a fishing village at Praia Pesqueira and tasted what will become our usual meal at the island - yummy fresh fish with fried banana, taken from an improvised restaurant – basically some local lady´s kitchen.
In São Tomé we visited Monte Café and had a five stars lunch at Casa Almada Negreiros. We had the opportunity to learn about the Cacao Production at Roça Diogo Vaz and Roça Agua Izé and the privilege to swim at 24o degrees Atlantic Ocean waters in Lagoa Azul, at Mukumbli beach and at a beach on the road to Santa Catarina. However, the highlight of our journey was the six hours trail that we did at Obô National Park. From 500m above sea level to 1.250meters, we walked deep into the primary forest where you don´t go without a sharp catana and were fortunate to see – two meters away – peaceful and deadly “Mamba Negra” snake. In the way back we did Caminhos da água, through claustrophobic 400 meters long water tunnels. Two hours nonstop rain made our jungle adventure if not more interesting surely more memorable.
In the capital we visited the National Museum, located in São Sebastião Fort dating 1575, met fellow TEDxSãoTomé organizers and found our way through the crowded, busy and unbelievably noisy local market. For less than 2€ we got out loaded with mangas, papaias and bananas (there are seven types of bananas at the island!)
Principe Island
Much smaller but equally interesting is Principe Island, biosphere reserve recognized by UNESCO since 2012, and a biodiversity hotspot of tropical forests of West Africa.
We stayed for four nights in Makaira Lodge and spent one day cruising the island in Polaris vehicle. That way we visited the capital, Santo António and many different spots. In Roça da Paciência, where biologic agriculture is being done, we were challenged to recognize the herbs and spices that we usually only see packed in jars. In Roça Belo Monte we saw an example of how amazing a recovered roça can look like. We found our perfect spot for picnic at Terreiro Velho, with a stunning view over Ilheu Boné do Jóquei, and still visited a small fishing village of Abade.
By kayak we went to visit the unique Bom Bom Resort & Island, as well as “Praia Burra”, where once again we were caught by rain. Locals advised to cross a little hill barefoot in order not to slip down. We tried. It was a bad idea :)
We stayed for four nights in Makaira Lodge and spent one day cruising the island in Polaris vehicle. That way we visited the capital, Santo António and many different spots. In Roça da Paciência, where biologic agriculture is being done, we were challenged to recognize the herbs and spices that we usually only see packed in jars. In Roça Belo Monte we saw an example of how amazing a recovered roça can look like. We found our perfect spot for picnic at Terreiro Velho, with a stunning view over Ilheu Boné do Jóquei, and still visited a small fishing village of Abade.
By kayak we went to visit the unique Bom Bom Resort & Island, as well as “Praia Burra”, where once again we were caught by rain. Locals advised to cross a little hill barefoot in order not to slip down. We tried. It was a bad idea :)
In STP Infrastructures are bad, lodging at affordable prices is still possible (Mukumbli was the best quality-price relation we found in São Tome and in Principe the best option was Makaira), nature is amazingly beautiful and diverse. However, the best of STP are the people. Simple, quiet, friendly, curious, polite and happy with the little they have. They were sharing with us stories that cannot be often heard in our “world”. Stories of simple life and big hopes. Always with their life motto: leve leve – “take it easy”.
Let’s meet again soon...
Let’s meet again soon...